Text: Igor Shevkun FASHION AND ART ALWAYS WERE CLOSE. But this year, from an abundance of ART QUOTES on the podium is breathtaking: Mondrian, Rothko, Warhol, Brassaï, FRUTRUNK ... we decided to conduct your research and find out what work has been inspired by the latest collections of PRADA, CELINE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, CHANEL AND GILES.
Muralists
For many years, designer Miuccia Prada has deliberately chosen art as his artistic gesture. In 1995, she, together with her husband and partner Patricio Bertelli, opened a foundation in support of contemporary art Prada Fondazione, starred in the movie Impossible Dialogue about the artist Elsa Schiaparelli, supports and collects British artists, and is friends with the American artist Cindy Sherman , which places the heroines of their photos in the most diverse, sometimes dramatic conditions.
The Spring-Summer 2014 collection, entitled In the Heart of Multitude, was inspired by the frescoes of Mexican painter Diego Rivera. Miuccia Prada invited muralists and illustrators from different countries to paint the walls of Milan's Via Fogazzaro show space for their show. The apotheosis of the invasion of artists on fashionable territory was the work of Mesa from Spain, El Mac from the USA, Gabriel Spectra from Canada, Stinkfish from Colombia, Jeanne Detallante and Pierre Morne from France. “I discerned strong, visible fighters in them. Today we should all be fighters. But my tool is a fashion with which I want to interpret all the debates about the role of women in our world. If you wear such a bold dress, they’ll turn you over attention, and then they will begin to listen to you. Here is my main idea, "Miuccia Prada talks about his collection.
Abstractionism
It seems that this season, Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, decided to play an eccentric artist, trying to break the world into fragments. The designer showed her spring-summer collection 2014 in the building of the Paris National Gendarmerie, where the models smartly defiled on the catwalk, painted in the spirit of abstract art with red, black and white squares, like on Mondrian’s canvases. “We looked at the strong women and the art of the 20s: Mondrian, Picasso, Lee Miller,” says Sarah Burton. “But, above all, I just created beautiful clothes - what I like to do more than anything.”
Having given birth to two twin girls in February this year, Sarah returned to the fashion catwalk with an interpretation of the main ideas of art from the beginning of the 20th century: a cocktail of primitive shapes and graphics, bold colors and clean lines. The hits of the collection are skirts and dresses in red, blue and white cage, a fancy dress woven from safety belts, and a leather coat with abstract prints, as in the paintings of the German artist Gunter Frutrunk.
But the collection "Spring-Summer 2014" by the student Yves Saint Laurent and Cristobal Balenciaga designer Cedric Charlier (Cedric Charlier) will appeal to fans of large-scale paintings by Mark Rothko. The author of the collection covered the podium with burning red watercolor paint and quoted Rothko's style on dresses and blouses, combining classics and abstract expressionism.
Pop Art
Designer Karl Lagerfeld in the Fall-Winter 2014 collection playfully mixed the scenes of Andy Warhol’s paintings with the atmosphere displayed on the most expensive photo in the world - Andreas Gursky’s diptych “99 cents” (at a London Sotheby's auction it was sold for a record $ 3,346,456) . As a result, the show moved to a huge hypermarket. “Art has also become a product,” says Lagerfeld, alluding to pop art’s tendency to replicate his works.
In the early 60s, in bohemian New York, fashion was elitist and too bourgeois - not everyone could afford to buy clothes in such fashion boutiques as the famous Paraphernalia. Today, fashion and art objects themselves have come to the masses. Spectators and models with food trolleys became customers in the hypermarket right at the fashion show, where more than 500 different products and bright art objects with the Channel logo were presented: Lait de Coco coconut milk, rubber gloves with gardenias attached to them, mountains of bananas and pineapples , washing powders, glass bottles with mineral water and even press photos of collections presented in a giant matchbox. According to Lagerfeld, contemporary art is the most creative way to express oneself.
But the red hibiscus on dresses and blouses from the Victor & Rolf autumn-winter collection look exactly like the Canvases "Flowers" by Andy Warhol (1964). The Dutch duet does not hide the fact that it drew inspiration from the famous "floral" paintings of Warhol, which became the hallmark of the godfather of pop art.
Street art
The Celine show, which was held under the remix of the famous Soul II Soul hit "Back To Life", from the very beginning sounded like a challenge - a challenge to sometimes too monotonous French fashion and boring advertising images. The designer of the house, Phoebe Filot, managed to synthesize a non-trivial story, in which there is a place for street art and black and white photographs of the famous French-Hungarian photographer, artist and sculptor Brassai. In the 30s, he created unique photos of contemporaries by Picasso, Dali, Matisse and Jean Genet on Montparnasse, and also captured couples of kissing lovers, the hands of fortune-tellers on tarot cards and nightly Paris party people. Phoebe's collection really resembles graffiti and the famous inscriptions of Brassai if they could be painted in bright colors.
When you look at the Celine collection, you will also see illustrations by the American artist Tony Viramontes, who worked closely with Vogue, Marie Claire and Le Monde in the late 70s, and worked with fashion houses such as Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel. Phoebe showed the audience exactly what was expected of her. The hit of the season was cocktail dresses made of flowing satin, cozy jacquard coats with multi-colored prints, white pleated silk skirts with burgundy strokes and red and black jersey tops. The result was perfect scenography, as if it were built for a musical about fashion.
Photo 90s
But the British fashion designer Gilles Deacon (Giles) in his latest collection confessed his love for the Rolling Stones and models and photographs of the 90s. In the spring-summer collection, Gilles fell in love with a 1997 test shooting for Prada by English fashion photographer and director Glen Lachford, in which Amber Valleta floats in a boat on a foggy river, looking away from the camera, leafing through contemporary art albums and pulling sneakers onto her legs Adidas Gazelle, which were a stunning success at the Giles show itself, combined with puffy dresses.
A strong connection was established between the freedom of the 90s and Giles silk dresses, which the designer expressed in quotes from other photos of Lachford in black and white style, for example, with Kate Moss. As a result, the collection of Gilles turned out to be truly creative, and the quotes of the photographs were veiled, but still guessed in the Gothic atmosphere of the show.
Sculpture
From Italian designer Antonio Marras most of all you expect variations on the theme of contemporary art. This season, Marras has created a spring-summer collection inspired by the bizarre work of American sculptor Kathy Ruttenberg. The designer admitted that he spent the whole vacation writing and painting applications by hand and creating voluminous, almost three-dimensional paintings on fabrics. Delicate flowers, prints from clouds, trees and gardens ... Using natural cotton of the simplest gray and beige hue as a kind of canvas, Antonio embodied a real three-dimensional garden on the fabric: flowers, sketches of human faces, painted with black ink, embroidered bees, as if ready to take to the air , and appliques made of flower petals made of silver leather.
Models walked on the catwalk outfits to the live sound of flutes, cello and piano, referring the viewer to ancient Greek mythology - stories about the skillful weaver Arachne and the beautiful nymph Daphne. Marras, as an original and bright artist, is sure that contemporary art is the engine of progress. “A dress becomes a canvas for an artist, a blank sheet for a writer, a score for a musician. In other words, a dress is just a way to tell the whole story,” as Marras described his creative process behind the scenes of the Milan Fashion Week.
